Andalucia coast line - Europe Gold Coast. Part 2 of 2.

The downhill run to Tarifa from Algeciras offers the spectacular sight on the foam-flecked Atlantic, bordered by a crescent of dazzling white sand. On the other side of Gibraltar, the sea clams down and the scenery changes. The picturesque marina and resort of Sotogrande, the largest and swishiest residential enclave in Andalucia, is the gateway to the more hedonistic pleasures of the Costa del Sol with its world famous resorts – Estepona, Puerto Banus, Marbella, Benalmadena, and Torremolinos and beyond, and all against the coastline can you see all the famous golf courses surrounded by apartments, townhouse and luxury villas with view over the Mediterranean.

The famous and loved beach restaurants – chiringuitos.

All former fishing villages, there is little trace of that activity today along their palm-tree lined paseos, where shops, bars, and restaurants offer every temptation under the sun. Estepona broad beaches are notable for their charming wooden chiringuitos – a modern take on the traditional concrete beach bar, planted with palms and flowers and serving a wide rage of tapas and more substantial dishes; on Marbella’s manicured, town centre beaches, even the showers are designer sculptures – shaped like elephant trunks.

The new trendy beach Clubs.

Trendy beach clubs around Marbella property has transformed the traditional day at the seaside into something altogether cooler. Leave the packed lunch and fold up deckchairs at home – at places like Poro Beach, The Ocean Club and Nikki Beach you can recline on white-curtained four-poster beach beds, listen to chill-out music and summon waiting staff to indulge your every whim, whether that’s iced mojito or a three course lunch.

Traditional Spanish beach food.

However, traditions die hard and, all along the coast, you can still find sun wizened old men setting up their sand filled rowing boats to prepare espetos-sardines skewered on upright canes, cooked next to the fire without either the smoke or flames touching the fish, producing an aroma that is quite distinctive.

The promenade leading from Benalmadena award-winning Benalmadena Puerto Marina to Torremolinos popular La Carihuela seafood restaurant strip is lined with chiringuitos (as well as intricate sand sculptures, created by the local hippies). Traditional delicacies include Malaga’s famous pescaito (small fried fish, such as boquerones and jurelitos), calamares, gambas a la plancha, paella, Andalucia gazpacho, and ajoblanco.

Andalucia east coast line from Malaga.

Eat of Malaga beyond the flat, somewhat nondescript resorts of Torre del Mar and Torrox Costa, the coastal scenery changes again, winding above rocky headlands concealing pretty bays. More accessible beaches with a similar topography can be found around the white town of Nerja. The old pueblo fans out from the Balcón de Europa, a natural, pal-lined belvedere which offers magnificent views over the craggy coast. The finest beach in Burriana, east of the centre, and there are a series of quiet coves within walking distance.

Granada province Costa Tropical.

Granada province’s 60 kilometres of coastline is known as the Costa Tropical, much of it refreshingly tranquil with crystal clear water that is excellent for snorkelling. The coast’s flagship resort is Almuñecar, which has an impressive castle and an attractive esplanade. There are other good beaches – although partially peddly – to be found in the neighbouring resorts of Salobreña and Castell de Ferro.

West of those, the landscape transforms into one of salt flats and san dunes, backed by a shimmering sea of polythene – 65,000 acres producing 20,000 tons of plastic waste annually; these are the invernaderos, the plastic greenhouses where fruit, flower and vegetables are cultivated all year round for the export market.

The province is a strange corner of Spain, with a lunar-like hinterland and the only desert in Europe. As Spain’s hottest region, its beach resorts are worth considering during what would be off-season elsewhere, since Almeria’s summers start well before Ester and last onto November.

The best beaches west of Almunecar and Cabo de Gato.

The three largest resorts west of the provincial capital – Almerimar, Roquetes de Mar and Aquadulce – after Almeria comes Almerimar - are highly developed with tower block hotels and beach emporia. The prettiest beaches lie to the east, bordering the Cabo de Gata – Nijar nature Reserve, in Almeria, Andalucia largest protected costal area.

The eponymous mountain range is Spain’s largest volcanic rock formation with sharp peaks and ochre crags that fall steeply to hidden coves whit white sandy beaches that are some of the most beautiful in Andalucia. Offshore are numerous, tiny islands and underwater coral reefs teeming with marine life. To discover there, a car is essential, although much of the Coastline is only accessible on foot, via some well-marked footpaths.

Lagoon of Las Salinas saltpans and home for the birds.

Just south of El Cabo village is the lagoon of Las Salinas. The only saltpans still in operation in eastern Andalucia, the glistening hills of salt are a striking feature. The lagoon is home to more than 80 species of birds, including storks, egrets and magnificent pink flamingos, as well as some interesting desert plants.

A lighthouse marks the cape’s southern tip and, beyond this, a track leads to two of the best, fine sand beaches – Monsul, with its fresh water springs, and Los Genoveses. The pristine water off the peninsula is ideal for underwater photography, diving, snorkelling, sailing, sea-kayaking, windsurfing and all types of fishing. In summer, swordfish are found in large numbers off the coast and these spectacular fish are a particular target during the annual World Coast Fishing Championships, held at Adra.

Small lovely fishing village on the coast.

At inlets along the cape there are several attractive little fishing villages, such as San Jo’s, La Isleta del Moro, Las Negras and Agua Amarga, where you can watch the local fisherman landing their catch and buy directly from their boats. Local delicacies include dorada, sea bass, octopus and tuna.

Due north, past a succession of small, isolated coves backed by scrub-covered hills and dry watercourses, the traveller arrives at Mojácar. This is a dual attraction consisting of an ancient pueblo of white, cubist houses perched on an outcrop of rock, and the modern beach resort which runs for several miles along a strip lined with hotels, bars, international restaurants and nightclubs. The beach offers every kind of water sports, including the latest –wakeboarding – a cross between mono skiing and surfing.

Andalucia beach fiestas and traditions San Juan.

Andalucia’s beaches are also the scene of some unusual and colourful fiestas during the year, when ceremonies dating back centuries are re-enacted, to the delight of locals and tourists. One of the strangest is the Burual of the Sardine which takes place after Carnaval, to mark the beginning of Lent. Most towns stage a procession to the beach, carrying a large, papier mach’e sardine which is ceremoniously cremated.

On the night of San Juan, celebrated on the eve of 23rd/24th June to mark the Summer Solstice, the entire coast is illuminated with bonfires. The tradition is to jump over the fire three times as an act of cleansing and purification. Unmarried girls then rush into the sea where, it is said; they will see the face of their future husband reflected in the water.

On the July 16th, many coasted towns celebrate the fiesta of the Virgen Del Carmen, patron saint of fishermen. The Virgin’s statue is paraded to the beach, placed in a decorated boat and taken out to sea to bless the coming year’s catch.
Such fisting, drinking and merrymaking – something the Spanish do so well. Above all, they are proof positive that, as the brochures say, there is more to Spain than sun, sea and sand.

Andalucia coast line – Europe Gold Coast. Part 1 of 2.